********If you are new to my paper floors, please read this first**********
You’re probably tired of hearing about my basement staircase makeover.
I’m sorry.
This flooring project has been taking over my life. Therefore, as faithful readers, it will take over your lives as well (seriously, thank you for your patience). I want to share with you the upstairs version with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. The only difference from the process used in the basement is that I rubbed the stain onto the paper after the glue dried with a rag before poly-ing. The result is nothing short of stunning.
Even people who are not related to me have loved it!
In case you forgot what it used to look like, here’s the before shot with the carpet (and the old paint).
And now, the fresh and sophisticated after:
Another angle:
In order to make the risers clean, smooth, and white, I had Mike cut out pieces of 1/8″ hardboard (near the pegboard at HD or Lowes, comes in 2×4 sheets).
I painted them with Glidden Semi-Gloss off the shelf white and attached them to the plywood risers with liquid nails.
I still have to caulk the seams, but for now I’m done. I have to move on to the upstairs floor or I feel I’ll lose motivation to rip up the rest of the carpet! For the full tutorial, click here.
*****Linked Up*****
I like your stair redo…but I’m sooo LOVING that darker color! Really adds a “classy”-ness to it! (I know, that’s probably not even a real word, but you probably know what I mean anyway! LOL!) And that’s a great idea on the risers, too. You almost make me want to try this technique! So, you add the stain after you put the paper down but before you poly it? Do you have any problems with paper edges curling up after the poly is applied or is it all pretty smooth?
Thanks for sharing your pictures. You do a FABULOUS job!
Tish- After 6 coats it is smooth…I mean there is texture from the paper but no edges peeling
Paper, for real?!? I didn’t even know you could do this! Can’t wait to see how it wears!
Isn’t it crazy?? All reports I’ve heard say that it wears really well, but I’m not that worried about it because it’s easy to fix if I need to! Can’t wait to rip up the carpet on the whole upper level!
Every time you post about this floor redo, I almost get butterflies in my stomach! I LOVE the whole idea of it, and someday, when we own a home, I fully plan to rip up some flooring to do this with it, I love it so much! And I LOVE it with the stain!
Your whole house is simply gorgeous, and getting more and more so every day!
Thank you so much!! I feel like I’m beating a dead horse, but I really am loving it and want to get the word out there about this type of treatment as an affordable flooring option!
I love this! It looks so rich in color and texture…you did a fabulous job!
Very cool look! Ingenious to use paper. Sort of looks like cork flooring.
This is simply amazing! I am your newest follower.
I love this! I have been looking for something to do to my basement floors and this is it! I’m glad you keep posting about it, so I’m continually reminded of what we’re going to do this summer. It is gorgeous!!
I am in AWE of your floor/stairs makeovers! I had seen this technique years ago and was intrigued then! You have done a terrific job and obviously inspired many to attempt this in their own homes. This technique can also be used as wallpaper and it actually resembles leather on the walls. Too kewl!
This is absolutely stunning! Makes me wish I HAD stairs just so I could do it too!
That’s beautiful! I might have to check out previous posts to see what this “paper” method is all about! Great job.
Have you thought about trying this out with different types of paper? I have heard of people using the gray BOGUS paper, red rosin paper, and various colored craft paper in doing floors, walls, furniture etc ….
I have thought about using different paper, but ultimately the only look I really loved was the brown paper. The red paper was WAY too red looking for me, and things like newspaper, bookpages, or other paper just didn’t really scream “floor” to me. I wanted something that was interesting, but that didn’t make people immediately think my floors were paper. But other papers might be cool for a kids room, walls, or furniture!
I’ve been lurking for a few weeks now and wanted to let you know that I am in totally awe at both the look and the guts you have to tackle so many kewl things! As soon as it warms up, I’m going to do this to my nasty looking staircase as well.
My only concern is the possible slipperyness (is that a word?) Is there much traction with all those poly coats? thanks!
Susie- the best comparison I have is that it feels the same as a hardwood tread. I’m pretty klutzy, and I haven’t fallen yet haha.
Rachael, this is fabulous with the stain! We’re going to do our master to match the kids rooms this summer, but I’m thinking I might want to stain it after looking at this! Great job.
Thanks Jami!! I think the stain would look awesome in a bathroom. Can’t wait to see it! (I’m still trying to find the time to start the upstairs LOL)
Absolutely stunning!
Fabulous and wildly creative! Looks a hundred times better. Great job.
Okay I just saw someone else recently who did this and I am still in awe that stairs can look this good with brown paper! I mean who knew? I love the stain you choose, it’s so rich and elegant looking. Beautiful work! I would love to have you share this at my VIP party today =) http://designergarden.blogspot.com/2011/03/vip-party-8.html
Thanks for stopping by! I’ll pop over to your party for sure
Thanks so much for linking up! Hope to see you again next Friday =)
It’s so hard to believe those were made with paper!!! They look just stunning!!! Thanks for sharing these at our Fancy This party!!
I love working with brown paper and love what you did with it to your stairs. WOW – it goes to show you that the unconventional way works just as well or in this case better. I shared this on Fb . Love it.
My best- Diane
I can’t believe you did this with paper! it is just stunning and a fab idea!!!
OK, this is my new favoritest (yes I made it up lol) thing EVAH!!!! My hubby just hasn’t a clue what awaits him this weekend!! I live in a rental, and I’m fortunate that they don’t care what I do to the place (mostly cause they are CHEAP, but that’s another story) but I’m not investing a lot of money in a house that isn’t going to be mine, not to mention, if I mess it up or hate it (not too likely, the hating part anyways) I don’t have to worry about it, I can just move!! LOL I love your blog btw!!!
Any way to do this elsewhere as I have no stairs but love the look. Is it possible to do on the walls, bottom third? Then maybe a wood trim with solid paint above? You’re the expert, let me know.
You could totally try it as a sort of “wainscot,” that would be neat! I know people who have done this treatment on furniture as well.
Hi I just found you and would never have thought of using paperbags. How many did you use, and did you cut them into strips aor just tear them? I would love to try this since my basement stairs have carpet on them that is older then I am.
Sandy- I actually used brown craft paper which is found near the drop cloth at home improvement stores. It was $10 for a giant roll (I did two sets of stairs and a hallway with one roll). I tore everything, it’s more organic that way. You could definitely use grocery bags if you have them though!
I found your blog thru Addicted 2 Decorating and I fell IN LOVE with your steps!!! Im so wishing I would have found this prior to priming mine to be painted. I had my house renovated and new hardwoods put in. While my steps are new, I was completely undecided on whether to carpet them or stain. Decided to paint my bare/naked/blah steps with some funky pattern until…I SAW HEAVEN IN THE FORM OF YOUR AMAZING IDEA!!!
So now I have lovely white primed steps and want to finish it up using your idea. Will the primer make this process difficult or am I ok to get a move on this this weekend?
Aww thanks so much for the compliment, Kim! The primer should be fine, since it’s designed to be grabby. But if you want you could rough it up with a little sandpaper first. Also- I have found that it helps to brush the surface with glue in the area you’re working before you lay the paper down-keeps the bubbles away. Good luck! I hope you share when you are done
It’s a good thing you took pictures – otherwise I would have to say you were fibbing! Your floor made my heart flutter…but in a good way. I am sending your blog to EVERYONE I know and I’m following you from now on. SIMPLY AMAZING!
I love this project. I have been dying to find something to do to my basement stairs because I really don’t want to carpet them. I’ve made up my mind and this is totally what I’m going to do! Thanks so much for the idea
Laura
Such an awesome project! I would love to feature this on my blog, Reduce, Reuse, Upcycle. Feel free to stop by and grab a featured button. Thanks!
http://reuseandupcycle.blogspot.com
Wow thanks!! I’ll look out for it!
OMG!! That is so cool!!
Hi,
Ok so OMG OMG OMG !!!! I love the stairs, especially the darker ones…what a awesome affordable idea! I just tore up the nasty carpet in our basement and am in the process of moving the nasty old paint and old glue from tiles fromt he previous owners..and could not think of what we could do besides paint it that was affordable…Do you think it would work on concrete? and also can it be painted a color or color stain(like light green etc) before the poly? THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH FOR THE IDEA!!
Lina
Lina- I think it would work on concrete, just make sure you brush glue on the floor in addition to dipping the paper into it. I would imagine you could paint it…what I did was get a small piece of mdf (like 2×3 ft) and do the treatment on there with the stain to make sure I liked it. I bet you could do the same type of “test swatch” and try different colors and stains to choose one. Just keep in mind since the paper is brown that might affect how other non-brown colors look on top. If you end up going with paint, I’d love to see it! Be sure to come by and share!
I will let you know if I do it…still scraping off the stupid paint and old glue…even with stripper it is never ending..lol…thank you for ansering so many bloggers dont respond..have a happy easter..
=),
Lina
I would love to do this to the stairs leading to our basement. I worry that this treatment will leave them slick and if the kids have wet shoes on and hurry too fast down the stairs they might fall. Since you have them, what do you think, are they slick? lol
Vicky- We don’t have children so I can’t speak to that aspect, but none of us have slipped. I could imagine it’s possible. It’s like having hardwood treads. You could always put a runner down them!
HI,
Ok so i did the first step on mdf today to see how it comes out…but my question(s) is am I supposed to over lap the papers or just connect them with minor overlapping? Also when i test the stain colors tomorrow , how many coats of stain did you use? Thank you in advance..
Lina
I overlapped mine quite a bit in some areas, but not as a general rule. Mainly I just looked at the next torn piece and decided where it’d fill the space best. That probably doesn’t help too much, but I really didn’t think about it. There are thicker and thinner areas, for sure. With the dark walnut, it only took 1 coat-the paper absorbs stain MUCH better than wood. Good luck!
thanks,,,, i tested the colors green(not dark) and a light blue stain …way way way to HELLO LOOK AT ME..so i am going to copy your floor lol…I have never used stain though, and am sure it is different when being used this way. But do I put it on the paper until there is no paper showing , like thickly? Or thinly? Sorry to keep bugging you…
Lina
No worries, I’m happy to help! You will be surprised how much color you get from one coat of stain. The main thing is to make sure your stain is stirred well but do not shake it or have it shaken. Stir it thoroughly with a stick, but slowly. Dip your rag in and just wipe all over, you have a little bit of time to blend everything, but it would be hard to go lighter than what I’ve done with that color. You’ll probably have to cut it around the edges/baseboard with a brush and then go in with your rag to blend everything together. I’d try it on your test board right over whatever you’ve already done to see how it feels. The whole paper will basically be saturated. Wear disposable gloves!
so i am not sure if its the mdf or what…but i tested the brown craft paper and the walnut stain out on a scrap piece of mdf…im not sure about it..yours is so beautiful on the website? mine looks kinda oily and more ..just little darker version of the craft paper itself? i bought the minwax dark walnut stain? this is without poly-ing it of course…so i am afraid to do it to the floor? your pictures came out like a dark mocha color, am i doing something wrong? helpppp please..
Lina
I am considering doing this treatment on a concrete floor. I watched the video from “anoregoncottage.com” at http://www.anoregoncottage.com/2010/08/video-diy-alternative-to-wood-floors.html
– I am worried about the bubbles or actually wrinkles that appear due to the glue. To me, it looks like your floor must not have had very many if any wrinkles from the glue. Is that true? On a scale of 1-3 what glue amount did you use? I noticed above you stated it was key to roll the glue on the floor first. After rolling the glue on the floor did you add extra to the back of paper and top like an oregon cottage did?
Jenny I didn’t really get many wrinkles. It may look like it at first, but when the floor dries I didn’t see any that were an issue. My technique I think is a bit different than hers. I actually brush the floor with the glue mixture in addition to crumpling my paper and putting it in the glue. I’m not sure if the glue in both areas is what helps or not, or if it’s just that I really soak the paper. I dunked the balls of paper and sort of squeezed them into tighter balls while in the glue, then opened them up and did it again. You don’t want any dry spots. But there is a fine line between wet and almost too wet to work with. Once you start, you will quickly realize where the line is. Too wet and it tears easily. I guess it’s probably between a 2 and a 3. Hope that helps!
Hi Rachael, I recently used this technique in our recently renovated attic which is being used as my husband’s design studio. LOVE how it turned out. I used a gray stain over the brown paper. Anywho, we are fixing the stairs next, and I was wondering how you feel this technique is holding up to stair traffic. It seems to be fine on the floors, but I wondered if you were noticing it wearing differently on the treads. Thanks! Love your site, btw.
Megan- I bet the gray stain looks awesome! I have found the stairs have held up really well actually. I have 12 coats of poly on them and have had no problems!
I am wondering how it is holding up. I am looking into doing this on my stairs, landing and hallway upstairs. And Maybe in the bedrooms. How is it holding up with traffic? I have a 6 year old and a almost 3 year old. I also have 2 dogs. Does it wear well or is it holding up? I am just so curious. I an also going to do it in the basement. I love this. I found you on Pinterest!
Brittany- So far it is looking great, especially the stairs for some reason. We have had some scratches from our dog during a few crazy running bursts, but her normal activity doesn’t cause any problems. It is similar to hardwood in that way. I can mop it like my hardwoods though so that’s great. The only other thing I would suggest is to really let it cure for at least 24 hours before you move furniture on it. I did my brother’s room most recently and there is a HUGE quality difference between his room and the guest room because it was a rush job- like 48 hours for the whole process. I would NOT recommend that. The longer you can let each layer of poly dry before applying the next, the better. The guest room floor is perfect because I was able to take my time. The last room left is our master which I’m dreading because it’s the size of the other two combined plus we obviously live in it and would be displaced UGH. How’s this, if you start yours, I’ll start mine?
Amazing job and amazing site! So…. I’ve done the downstairs bathroom floor this way, have glued down my pieces and it’s dry and looks GREAT! Next step: the stain. Problem is that I think I’m ruining it!!! What kind of stain did you use exactly? I got the waterbased Miniwax stain in superdark Bombay Mahogany and it is looking WAaaaaaaaayyyy sucky. The paper is sucking it in, and it’s drying and showing the wipe marks, not letting me blend and when I rub or blot a little harder to blend, the paper looks like it’s threatening to tear. Did you use an oil based stain or water based….or the poly/stain combo? And what kind of rag? Did you saturate your rag? I’m going to have to re-paper the area that I’ve tried it out on as it looks beyond horrible.
Help!
Oh no Kim! The paper does really suck up stain, but I used oil-based (not with poly) so I’m not sure if there is a difference. To do the large floor areas, I used a long handled lambswool mop- like the kind used for staining a deck. It is basically a rectangular pad on a stick. It helps it go on smoother and faster without you having to rub everything really quickly. I took a paint brush and cut in around the baseboards in the area I was working (i.e., not the whole room at once) then used the mop in the rest of the room.The staining is the trickiest part, but I think if you get the lambswool setup you’ll have better results. I used a paint tray and dipped the mop end in the “pool” of stain then sort of pressed it out on the ridged part of the tray. Let me know how it goes!
Thank you so much for the super duper fast response! I am re-papering/glue-ing the messed up area as we speak….er…um…type. Once it’s fully dry I’ll try the oil based stain WITH the pad. I bet that was the problem. When I used the rag to apply it, the edges seemed to be pretty testy with me and were sometimes lifting up and I bet the water based situation just made it sink into the paper too fast to blend. Questions: When you initially apply the stain, how heavy do you apply it… do you leave the stain opaque or are you able to see the paper edges and wrinkles through it right away? Wondering how much stain you’re pressing off when you press against the ridges. YOU ARE APPRECIATED! Have a fantastico day!
Kim- I press out the pad enough for it to not be drippy. But the lambswool is more absorbent then a rag so that already takes care of a lot of the over-application problem for you if that makes sense. I liked the look of it really dark, you can see the edges and wrinkles, but not the original color of the paper at all. Hope that helps!
Hooray! Good news! I went with the Minwax Jacobean oil based stain and it looks amazing! Applied with the lambskin applicator and wiped off with a bit of old bath towel… But a problem…..it’s been 24 hours and the stain is still tacky and sticky to the touch. Temps are over 70′s inside with low humidity. How long did it take for your floors to be un-sticky?
I’m so glad the oil based worked better for you!! In my case, the stain never really did dry to be non-tacky, If you can tiptoe in some socks and apply the first coat of poly (I also did it with the mop thing, but you use a sponge pad), it won’t be sticky for subsequent coats. If you have time to try letting it dry for another day, that might help.
OH MY GOSH I LOVE MY FLOOR! I’m curious, did you guys use satin or semi-gloss poly? I used Varathane Floor Poly in High Gloss and am really liking the super shiny finish in the bathroom. I put a good 6 coats on and it is amazing. I was hemming and hawing about what finish to put, and after researching, found out that a “piano finish” with the high gloss is a high end finish for hardwood floors and if I ever tire of it, I can add a coat of semi-gloss or satin over the top later to tone it down. I also read that going the other way, from satin to gloss won’t work because it will just look cloudy. You blog inspired me to start my own and I’ve posted my faux granite countertop and faux coved ceiling treatment, but haven’t got my floors on there yet because I want to finish painting my trim white first. Thanks again for all of your help with my floors!!! <3
Kim I’m so glad!! I used satin because I did my whole upstairs and didn’t want it to look overwhelming. Plus we have hardwood downstairs that’s not glossy and I wanted it to blend. It sounds like yours looks amazing though! Can’t wait to see!
Here it is! The final product. I really like the high gloss finish. Now I’m thinking I have to use it in the entire house. After researching I hear they call it “piano finish” and is a “high end” trend in hardwoods these days. PLUS if I ever tire of it, I can just add a coat of satin over the top. See the pics here: http://mossisawesome.wordpress.com/2011/08/29/stained-paper-floor-awesomeness-under-30-diy-hardwoodlaminate-floor-alternative/
Oh my GRACIOUS holy monkeys!! I LOVE this!!!! Okay…tell me this…how long does it take for the floor sealer to dry in between coats? I would love to do, like, my whole house (LOL) but my hubs might not love that idea. I have 2 small kiddos, and a one level house…I don’t want to be grounded to one room. =) Any suggestions?
Nina- I used a fast dry sealer, but they still really want you to wait 4-6 hours between coats. You could try it on a weekend and send the kids to a friend’s house
sweet buddhe on a bicylce! i am completely in love with your floors! i have spent ages agonizing over what type of flooring, how to save for it, what room to start in and BAM! there it is… everything i want for my living room at a price i can afford and i can do it myself on my single day off. i <3 stumbleupon and i <3 this!
thanks!
Thanks Debra!!! Good luck!!
I have fallen absolutely in love with this idea. I am trying to convince my dad to let me do this to his very large basement – and while he hasn’t agrees yet he is letting me try his stairs out first. His biggest concern is the wear of it – will it scratch easily, what about high traffic areas, etc.
Also, I see you said you sand it after each coat of poly. What kind of sand paper do you use? Is this to get rid of the texture? How do I know when I’ve sanded just the right amount?
Thank you!
Heather- All of our stairs are done this way and it looks as good as the day I put it in. Anytime you sand between coats, you use fine sandpaper, 200grit or higher. It doesn’t take much to get a smooth result.
Thank you sooo much for this wonderful idea! My husband was really skeptical about the paper floor but he was willing to let me do it. I just finished our living and dining room and we LOVE it! I was a little nervous about the paper glueing to the concrete but the Elmer’s glue worked great. I had no problems and it was due to your thorough instructions. Thanks!
OMG, this is the most beautiful flooring I ever seen (that’s not wood)! I love the finish.
Hi there! My wife and I have been stalking all of your paper bag floor posts and we are partway through the project. We have removed the carpet, tack strips, etc., we’ve sanded and filled all of the seams and holes.
Our dilemma is that in our newer construction home, there is a large gap between the skirt board and the staircase and I’m not sure how to fix it. Did you have any large gaps when you pulled up the carpet? If so, how did you remedy it?
I’m sure you get a million questions about this, I hope you don’t mind answering one more!
Kathryn- We do have a gap on our floors (not the stairs fortunately, the skirt board was installed before the carpet I guess), and are slowly adding quarter round to the bottom to cover it. You can also get creative with some wood filler, caulk, and this product
If you look at the picture of whole staircase from the top, at the very bottom where the landing is, I actually filled that gap with paper towels (before I found that foam tube product), wood filler, and caulk. It was the only place I had a gap on the first floor, and I thought quarter round would look silly just right there.
i stained my floor a golden oak then put the poly on 3 layers but it was not the water base. i now have dark spots where the paper didnt glue all the way to floor. Is there any way to put new brown paper over dark patchs stain and poly. would that fix my dark spots. thanks jeanette
I just got done doing our Bathroom walls and it looks great.. we have an ugly purplish colored countertop so i decided to try to cover it also. it worked lol.. now waiting for stain to dry so i can poly … thanks for sharing! as soon as we get better weather I am moving in to the kitchen to cover our old nasty kitchen floor.
I overlapped mine quite a bit in some areas, but not as a general rule. Mainly I just looked at the next torn piece and decided where it’d fill the space best. That probably doesn’t help too much, but I really didn’t think about it. There are thicker and thinner areas, for sure. With the dark walnut, it only took 1 coat-the paper absorbs stain MUCH better than wood. Good luck!
so i am not sure if its the mdf or what…but i tested the brown craft paper and the walnut stain out on a scrap piece of mdf…im not sure about it..yours is so beautiful on the website? mine looks kinda oily and more ..just little darker version of the craft paper itself? i bought the minwax dark walnut stain? this is without poly-ing it of course…so i am afraid to do it to the floor? your pictures came out like a dark mocha color, am i doing something wrong? helpppp please..
Lina
Oh no Kim! The paper does really suck up stain, but I used oil-based (not with poly) so I’m not sure if there is a difference. To do the large floor areas, I used a long handled lambswool mop- like the kind used for staining a deck. It is basically a rectangular pad on a stick. It helps it go on smoother and faster without you having to rub everything really quickly. I took a paint brush and cut in around the baseboards in the area I was working (i.e., not the whole room at once) then used the mop in the rest of the room.The staining is the trickiest part, but I think if you get the lambswool setup you’ll have better results. I used a paint tray and dipped the mop end in the “pool” of stain then sort of pressed it out on the ridged part of the tray. Let me know how it goes!
Kim- I press out the pad enough for it to not be drippy. But the lambswool is more absorbent then a rag so that already takes care of a lot of the over-application problem for you if that makes sense. I liked the look of it really dark, you can see the edges and wrinkles, but not the original color of the paper at all. Hope that helps!